Bat Cave Boulders
Only the V3/V4 is properly cleaned, so be be careful with anything loose. All problems listed left to right
Bat roof section – High roof by the stairs and to the left, mostly unexplored and possibly too high for bouldering, has an easy flowstone pillar problem (V0?) and maybe some other easy problems below the roof
Flowstone section – The bottom and middle sections of the grey flowstones to the right of the stairs are mostly strong. Some are hollow, but even avoiding them I found great movement. The top is very very sketchy with crumbling dirt like rock, so it is likely not climbable without some serious cleaning and possibly not at all. Do not try hit a hold towards the top of these flowstones. They could possibly be used for an amazing traverse line.
Melted tufa section – A series of bizarre tufas and stalactites to the right of the grey flowstones above a nice pocketed roof. The lower sections felt strong by the touch, but they were never fully cranked on so they are not tested. A stable ladder with a rope backup would be wise to test these as they are committing from the floor. It would be incredible 3D climbing and some of the best problems if strong enough.
Deep roof section – Many classics to be established here. The rock is solid with wild pocketed features on the roof and perfect white limestone afterwards. Probably room for at least 8 excellent problems and many more variations. The roof holds need to be cleaned from the black algae that grows on it. A wire brush followed by a cloth worked very well and some of the roof pockets need a little filing. Maybe a mild pressure wash would be good.
Alcove section – Around the corner from the deep roof is small alcove of very interesting rock. Shorter problems than the deep roof, but nice roof pockets, tufa sections on the face, blank sections with monos on the upper face and a perfect low ledge (3m) for ending holds. Spotter recommended to avoid falling into the bush. There is also a section that looks possible to top-out here and maybe downclimb in the back of the bat cave.
Deep Roof Section
Thumb Buckets
V4
Starting holds: two large pockets in the roof closest to the pillar
Head straight out the cave through obvious pockets
Ending holds: Rail with small horn above the little cave-like feature
Unclimbed/slightly cleaned
V6+
Starting holds: two large pockets directly to the right of previous problem (possibly use right hand pocket from previous problem for left hand)
Head straight out the cave about a meter right and parallel to previous problem
Ending holds: Right side of rail from first problem (not checked)
Unclimbed/slightly cleaned
V8+
Starting holds: Double hand undercling on medium pocket (another option is to use another small pocket for right hand 1.5 meters to the right) in front of the mound-like pillar to the right of the previous two problems
Pass pink pinches to a series of black tufas (needs more cleaning from algae) out the cave and slightly left. Cruisy after the lip, so could make it even harder with a variation more to the right.
Ending holds: Small rail 3-4m to the right of first problem and slightly lower, unchecked so it may not be a jug, if so there are plenty of jug pockets below to finish
Unclimbed/uncleaned
V6+
Starting holds: Pockets on the very right of the deep roof where it protrudes out more before the alcove
Leads out left towards the white rock on a long roof
Ending holds: Big deep jug pocket 2 meters into the white rock
Alcove Section
Unclimbed/slightly cleaned
V6+
Starting holds: Double undercling on solid stalactite in the left armpit of the alcove
Two variations: one leads straight up the white face with monos, one leads up sharper pocketed grey rock to a possible topout (needs a bit of filing)
Ending holds: Alcove ledge or topout
Unclimbed/slightly cleaned
V5+
Starting holds: Small roof pockets 1 meter right of the tufas and 1 meter into the black roof
Traverse left out of the roof on some small roof holds until bigger jugs getting to face. Use the tufas and climb up to the ledge
Ending holds: Alcove ledge
Unclimbed/slightly cleaned
V4+
Starting holds: Left hand in the left side of strange white hanging rock, right hand in deep pocket to the right (right side of the hanging rock doesn’t feel 100% secure so maybe avoided
Traverse left out of the roof on some decnt roof holds to a mini-ledge, then crank up to the big ledge with sweet foot positions
Ending holds: Alcove ledge
Heritage Boulder
V9+
Unclimbed/Mostly clean
Starting holds: Sit start to the right of the blue painted rock in the
Head up to the big undercling and straight up to the end. Either a giant dyno or tiny sharp edges.
Ending holds: Double handed jug before the sharp stuff
V8+
Unclimbed/Mostly clean
Starting holds: Sit start to the right of the last boulder
Head up to the blank face and then slightly to the right to end on jugs on the clean rock
Ending holds: Jugs on clean rock to right (alternatively sharp pocket to the left)
V4
Unclimbed/Needs cleaning
Starting holds: Big cave jug closer to the palm tree
Short problem with a top out. Move left and then up to top out beside the cactus (top needs inspection and cleaning for rocks and plants)
Ending: Top out
V3
High Traverse/Needs cleaning at top
Starting holds: Start right of the palm tree as far as possible
Head left using the grey rock for holds up top for first half
Ending: Biggest jug before the sharp rock
V3
Low Traverse
Starting holds: Start right of the palm tree as far as possible
Head left and down to the bottom of the cave jugs and then back up again to the left
Ending: Biggest jug before the sharp rock